Caribbean feeling at Chanel in Paris


This time Karl Lagerfeld obviously felt like going on vacation when he designed his Chanel collection for the coming summer. He turned the Grand Palais into a paradisiacal beach, with real water beating to shore in shallow waves.

From the rows of seats the view went out to the open sea, to small straw huts and Lagerfeld muse Baptiste Giabiconi, who mimed the lifeguard on an observation tower.

Who could have been a better guest than Pamela Anderson? The former “Baywatch” mermaid is currently in Paris for the television program “Danse avec les stars” and was the attraction of the show. Barefoot, Chanel slippers in hand, she ran across the white beach, this time as a catwalk, and sat down in the front row.

Likewise barefoot and under loud seagulls cried also the models along the shore. The look was chic but relaxed: comfortable tweed jackets were covered in comfortable leggings, elegant culotte trousers slashed at the front and tunics tied at the waist. Even the straw hats on the head and the typical Chanel bags, which were practically worn this time as a duo on the cross, made for the perfect holiday outfit.

In the end it was speculated again. The increasingly shaky Lagerfeld stayed on the boardwalk for an exceptionally long time to accept the applause. At his side: Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s right hand. In addition, the Wertheimer family, the owners of Chanel, had come by way of exception to congratulate the chief designer. Some fashion editors took this as a sign that this might have been his last show.

It was an eventful fashion week. L’Oréal held a spectacular show on the Seine, a street was named after Sonia Rykiel, and Hedi Slimane made his debut into a hot temper.

In addition, many Parisian designers have recently shown fashionable conscience. First and foremost the highly acclaimed newcomer Marine Serre. 50 percent of their collection consists of up-cycled materials, from old fleece blankets to simple white T-shirts.

The new Courrèges designer, the German Yolanda Zobel, also announced that from now on, no more plastic to use. A bold step for a label that became known in the 60s, especially for vinyl fashion. As soon as the last 6,000 meters of remaining stock have been used up, it should be over with plastic clothing.

Stella McCartney has long stood for sustainable designer fashion. Both women and men wear the same loose-fitting suits this season. Pastel-colored batik fabrics, biker suits with old-fashioned floral prints or decorative zippers set them against delicate lingeries and fine chiffon. A pleasantly unpretentious collection for a designer who has just regained her freedom. After 17 years, she bought her label from the luxury group Kering, causing surprise. Because usually it works the other way around.

As in the case of Dries van Noten. The Belgian designer, who founded his label in 1986, announced in June the sale to the Spanish group Puig. To the great dismay of many fans. But Dries van Noten does not seem to be upset. On the contrary. His collection, which he displayed at the Palais de Tokyo, is one of the best he has designed in recent years. Courageously, he ventures into new terrain: Sporty elements, such as colored elastics, workers overalls, shimmering nylon parkas and bright neon colors, he mixes with feather applications, elegant suits and sequins. The Paris Fashion Week finishes on Tuesday evening with the Louis Vuitton show, traditionally shown at the Musee du Louvre.

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